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The Cherry Blossoms in
Tokyo
Story and pictures by Hans Albanese |
Late spring when the cherry trees bloom is a great time to visit Japan.
It is an opportunity to enjoy the culture, the blossoms and the unique places where they bloom.
Cherry blossom season marks the beginning of the Japanese fiscal and educational
year. In yearbook pictures there is always a line of frowning children beneath the pink blossoms. School entrance and
graduation ceremonies also feature the trees. It is a
symbol of Spring and renewal in the Japanese mind.
The cherry blossoms begin in Tokyo around the third week in March and continue through the second week of April. In Tokyo, there are many
places to enjoy the blossoms, perhaps the most famous being Ueno Park, near Ueno on the Yamanote line.
From the station, take the Park exit and follow the signs for Shinobazu pond. Many cherry trees bloom along the path that circles the pond. If you
dislike crowds, it is best to avoid Ueno Park on the weekends when people come out in droves to enjoy the blossoms. A walk around the pond
will take 30 minutes and there are boat rentals for those interested in a bit of romance.
If you finish at the far end of the pond near McDonald's, cross the large street and walk one block to the exciting
Ameyokou market. Turning left here will bring you back toward Ueno station.
Another great place to see the blossoms is Yasukuni Shrine, near Kudanshita subway station on the Tozai or Shinjuku lines. From
Yasukuni's main gate, the wide path running up to the shrine is bordered by a large grove of spectacular cherry trees.
I visited the shrine on a weekday morning and the activity had already begun.
Food stalls were set up beneath the trees where shouting vendors sold such exotic food as fried squid, octopus dough balls, and corn on
the cob with soy sauce. The corn was not very tasty, but the octopus and squid were good. Behind the stalls, there were many blue tarps
spread on the ground where people reserve picnic space under the trees.
It is common to see a lone businessman sitting on a wide tarp in the morning, holding the space so his colleagues to join him after work for
a company party.
Of course, some may question how much a sake-soaked businessman can really enjoy or even see the blossoms, but the Japanese drinker is the
most polite drinker in the world. Karaoke in the park can annoy some people, but it lends to the festival atmosphere as do the food stalls.
It is important to note here that Yasukuni Shrine is controversial. It is called Japan's "war shrine" so there are many people who do not want
to come here. Anyway, this is a beautiful shrine but, if you are into that sort of thing, there is also a "war memorial museum" on the far
side of the temple past the cherry trees. The exhibits on the Pacific War are limited to forlorn cannons, replicas and a small monument to the
teenage kamikazes.
Retrace your steps toward the station until you see the round Budokan on the opposite side of the street. Budokan means "hall of martial
arts," though it seems to be used mostly for concerts these days. There
are some cherry trees along the moat in front of the Budokan, but I liked the ones by the opposite bank more. These are laden with blossoms
and their branches hang down like willow trees.
The bridge in front of the Budokan is a nice place for pictures, though it is difficult to
avoid walking in front of someone's lens. In the park between the bridge and the fire station, a photographer can get good shots of the
hanging blossoms and the Imperial moat. When I came here, there were nearly a dozen photographers jostling for a three meter wide lookout
point with others waiting. This is another place to expect crowds on the weekend.
From the bridge, follow the path through the large gate and up the hill. Turn left at the Lion Club sign and you enter Kita
Nomaru park. This park has many cherry trees, but I like the atmosphere here because
the trees are spread out among other plants that bloom in the Spring.
This is a good change of color from the clouds of pink blossoms at Yasukuni shrine. There are few people here compared to Yasukuni Shrine
and the Budokan, so it makes for a quiet stroll.
Kita Nomaru Park is an extension of the Imperial grounds, so it is well-kept and a good example of a Japanese garden. Walk through the
garden and follow the path as it winds left and down the hill. You will
come out at Shimuzu Gate where turning right, you will soon come to Takebashi station.
For those who want to continue, pass Takebashi station and continue walking. You will soon come to other gardens and parks as you walk
south.
Hans Albanese teaches at a private high school in Chiba, Japan, while
working as a freelance proofreader, translator and writer. You may
contact Hans through his e-mail address: halbanese@yahoo.com