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Malaysian Mountain Adventure
Meat eating plants and toads the size of telephone directories
Special thanks to STEVE PAYNE -- The Toronto Sun
Pictures by Laurie Keith
Nicholas Dunggo shows off a
blowpipe weapon. Dunggo is the ancestor of a famous 1700's
headhunter.
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Mt. KINABULU, SABAH -- Alim Biun spends much of his time working
below East Asia's highest mountain, but he loves nothing more than
to climb its 4,101 metres.
He's conquered it more than 100 times and once held the record for
the fastest ascent and descent - 2 hrs. 55 minutes.
Biun, 42, recently lost that title to an Englishman, who shaved 13
minutes of the Malaysian's time. Biun doesn't think he can top that
mark at his age.
"I love this mountain," says Biun, a guide at Mt Kinabalu
Park, a protected area and World Heritage listed site.
"To us the mountain is sacred, a resting place for the spirits
of the dead," he said.
The peak is the most famous landmark in Sabah, one of two Malaysian
territories on the fabled, jungle island of Borneo, the other being
Sarawak.
Most of the remainder of Borneo belongs to Indonesia, except for the
small kingdom of Brunei, the Sultan of which swaps the title of
world's richest man with Bill Gates, depending on how the Microsoft
magnate's stocks are doing at any given moment.
Mt Kinabalu is not a technically difficult climb and it can be
tackled by anyone who is reasonably fit. It's like clambering up a
seemingly endless, uneven staircase. In short, a tough, uphill slog.
I first climbed it 12 years ago, taking five hours to reach a hostel
which sits a few hours below the peak.
The idea is to eat, drink and sleep at the hostel, and then get up
around 2 a.m. to climb the rest of the way, the final part of which
requires guide ropes.
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A
traditional dance is performed in Sabah.
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The early start is designed to get you to the top as dawn breaks,
giving you a spectacular view for miles around.
Back then I was so tired during the hike that I didn't take sufficient
time to appreciate the surroundings.
This time I put that right, foregoing another climb to allow Biun to
show me the wonders of the parkland.
Biun never tires of an environment in which he can glimpse a toad the
size of a telephone directory and the leopard cat, which, while
identical to an African leopard, is the size of a small, domestic
feline.
He is especially proud of taking what may be the finest photograph
ever of a Kinabalu Friendly Warbler.
Only found in two places in Borneo, this tiny ground feeding bird
confuses everyone by mimicking the sounds of insects.
 | Sabah has 600 different
birds, 160 species of snakes, - 28% of them poisonous -
224 mammals, countless other animals and an Aladdin's cave
of flora and fauna.
 | There are 1,000 types of
orchid, one so tiny it virtually needs a microscope to see
it, 25 different rhododendrons and 350 species of
mushroom.
 | And there's rafflesia,
the world's largest flower, which can weigh an astonishing
two kilos and be a metre in diameter. Despite the flower's
size, few people have seen one as it only blooms for three
days and then dies.
 | Even the dozens of
mountainside ferns are fascinating. The fur from one such
fern can help stop bleeding. Locals say another fern, if
eaten in sufficient quantities, may help fight cancer. |
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"I was sitting quietly on a path one day when one ofthe
birds came out into the open," recalls Biun. "I could not
believe my eyes and I was fortunate enough to have a camera with
me."
Biun has also discovered a new plant, a regular scientific
achievement in these parts, but it was named after his boss instead
of him.
One plant that draws constant attention from onlookers is the
Pitcher Plant. Not surprising, as it eats meat. Guides, says Biun,
sometimes find small rodents inside some large Pitcher Plants.
The plant's usual victims are insects, drawn to it to taste its
elixir. It's a kiss of death. They get stuck and the plant slowly
sucks the life out of its prey for its own sustenance.
While the mountain stands tall in Sabah, tourists share its
magnetism with the fabulous beaches, many of which are around the
city of Kota Kinabalu.
A perfect example is the Nexus resort, a sprawling haven of wooden
chalets and luxury rooms, houses and apartments.
Fronting on to a superb beach, it has all the facilities, including
a golf course, any discerning sun worshipper could need.
The pool is so huge young kids could be forgiven for thinking it was
the ocean itself.
The largest numbers of tourists so far, says guide Rebecca Kotter
Anak Dominic, are from Australia, only a four-hour flight away.
Chrispin Ginting
(in white) and Ganison Casun, both four, pose in front of Mt.
Kinabalu. Their parents run a fruit stall near the mountain. |
Dominic, who speaks fluent Danish, (her husband is a Dane and she
once lived in Copenhagen) is typical of many people here who speak
several languages, including English.
She once lived in the Sudan, but Sabah calls her home.
"The village I lived in here as a child did not have a
television until the early 1980's," she says, adding that, for
some reason, "I remember watching re-runs of Rawhide."
She was quick to help a travelling colleague, Tony Jones, 59, of
Vancouver, who, to some extent, was also making a journey home.
Jones once lived in Australia and was in that country's army when
its soldiers were part of the force that beat back communist
insurgents in Borneo in the late 1950's and early 60s.
Jones was injured by grenade shrapnel.
Finding a lump in his breast in 1969, Jones feared he had cancer. He
was relieved when surgeons found a piece of shrapnel that was missed
all those years ago and had somehow worked its way up his body.
Borneo was occupied by the Japanese during World War II, and many
survivors now travel here.
Biun remembers stories from his grandfather about the wartime years,
when invaders had to cope not only with allied forces but
headhunting tribes as well.
"My grandfather hunted with a blow pipe and poisonous
arrows," says Biun. "Monkeys were the usual target. The
arrow hits, the monkey freezes and then drops dead in five minutes
or so."
Park guide Alim Biun. |
Wildlife was not necessarily the only target, recalls Biun.
"There was a Japanese soldier who used to come into the village
to steal chickens, my grandfather told me. An arrow stopped him one
day."
Headhunting is now long gone, but there is a reminder at the
Monsopiad Cultural Village near Kota Kinabalu.
The village, a family business, was founded in 1996 in memory of a
1700s Kadazan tribe headhunter named Monsopiad.
In one home 42 human skulls hang, proudly shown off by a Monsopiad
ancestor, Nicholas Dunggo, 24.
"I wish we could do some headhunting now," says Dunggo.
"I can think of a few people...."
For more information contact:
LTI Tours 416 962 9661
Malaysian Tourism 1 888 689 6872
Malaysian Airlines 416 925 6670
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