Malaysian Mountain Adventure

Meat eating plants and toads the size of telephone directories

Special thanks to STEVE PAYNE -- The Toronto Sun
Pictures by Laurie Keith
Nicholas Dunggo shows off a blowpipe weapon. Dunggo is the ancestor of a famous 1700's headhunter.

Mt. KINABULU, SABAH -- Alim Biun spends much of his time working below East Asia's highest mountain, but he loves nothing more than to climb its 4,101 metres.

He's conquered it more than 100 times and once held the record for the fastest ascent and descent - 2 hrs. 55 minutes.

Biun, 42, recently lost that title to an Englishman, who shaved 13 minutes of the Malaysian's time. Biun doesn't think he can top that mark at his age.

"I love this mountain," says Biun, a guide at Mt Kinabalu Park, a protected area and World Heritage listed site.

"To us the mountain is sacred, a resting place for the spirits of the dead," he said.

The peak is the most famous landmark in Sabah, one of two Malaysian territories on the fabled, jungle island of Borneo, the other being Sarawak.

Most of the remainder of Borneo belongs to Indonesia, except for the small kingdom of Brunei, the Sultan of which swaps the title of world's richest man with Bill Gates, depending on how the Microsoft magnate's stocks are doing at any given moment.

Mt Kinabalu is not a technically difficult climb and it can be tackled by anyone who is reasonably fit. It's like clambering up a seemingly endless, uneven staircase. In short, a tough, uphill slog.

I first climbed it 12 years ago, taking five hours to reach a hostel which sits a few hours below the peak.

The idea is to eat, drink and sleep at the hostel, and then get up around 2 a.m. to climb the rest of the way, the final part of which requires guide ropes.

A traditional dance is performed in Sabah.



The early start is designed to get you to the top as dawn breaks, giving you a spectacular view for miles around.

Back then I was so tired during the hike that I didn't take sufficient time to appreciate the surroundings.

This time I put that right, foregoing another climb to allow Biun to show me the wonders of the parkland.

Biun never tires of an environment in which he can glimpse a toad the size of a telephone directory and the leopard cat, which, while identical to an African leopard, is the size of a small, domestic feline.

He is especially proud of taking what may be the finest photograph ever of a Kinabalu Friendly Warbler.

Only found in two places in Borneo, this tiny ground feeding bird confuses everyone by mimicking the sounds of insects.
bulletSabah has 600 different birds, 160 species of snakes, - 28% of them poisonous - 224 mammals, countless other animals and an Aladdin's cave of flora and fauna.

bulletThere are 1,000 types of orchid, one so tiny it virtually needs a microscope to see it, 25 different rhododendrons and 350 species of mushroom.

bulletAnd there's rafflesia, the world's largest flower, which can weigh an astonishing two kilos and be a metre in diameter. Despite the flower's size, few people have seen one as it only blooms for three days and then dies.

bulletEven the dozens of mountainside ferns are fascinating. The fur from one such fern can help stop bleeding. Locals say another fern, if eaten in sufficient quantities, may help fight cancer.

 

"I was sitting quietly on a path one day when one ofthe birds came out into the open," recalls Biun. "I could not believe my eyes and I was fortunate enough to have a camera with me."

Biun has also discovered a new plant, a regular scientific achievement in these parts, but it was named after his boss instead of him.

One plant that draws constant attention from onlookers is the Pitcher Plant. Not surprising, as it eats meat. Guides, says Biun, sometimes find small rodents inside some large Pitcher Plants.

The plant's usual victims are insects, drawn to it to taste its elixir. It's a kiss of death. They get stuck and the plant slowly sucks the life out of its prey for its own sustenance.

While the mountain stands tall in Sabah, tourists share its magnetism with the fabulous beaches, many of which are around the city of Kota Kinabalu.

A perfect example is the Nexus resort, a sprawling haven of wooden chalets and luxury rooms, houses and apartments.

Fronting on to a superb beach, it has all the facilities, including a golf course, any discerning sun worshipper could need.

The pool is so huge young kids could be forgiven for thinking it was the ocean itself.

The largest numbers of tourists so far, says guide Rebecca Kotter Anak Dominic, are from Australia, only a four-hour flight away.

Chrispin Ginting (in white) and Ganison Casun, both four, pose in front of Mt. Kinabalu. Their parents run a fruit stall near the mountain.
Dominic, who speaks fluent Danish, (her husband is a Dane and she once lived in Copenhagen) is typical of many people here who speak several languages, including English.

She once lived in the Sudan, but Sabah calls her home.

"The village I lived in here as a child did not have a television until the early 1980's," she says, adding that, for some reason, "I remember watching re-runs of Rawhide."

She was quick to help a travelling colleague, Tony Jones, 59, of Vancouver, who, to some extent, was also making a journey home.

Jones once lived in Australia and was in that country's army when its soldiers were part of the force that beat back communist insurgents in Borneo in the late 1950's and early 60s.

Jones was injured by grenade shrapnel.

Finding a lump in his breast in 1969, Jones feared he had cancer. He was relieved when surgeons found a piece of shrapnel that was missed all those years ago and had somehow worked its way up his body.

Borneo was occupied by the Japanese during World War II, and many survivors now travel here.

Biun remembers stories from his grandfather about the wartime years, when invaders had to cope not only with allied forces but headhunting tribes as well.

"My grandfather hunted with a blow pipe and poisonous arrows," says Biun. "Monkeys were the usual target. The arrow hits, the monkey freezes and then drops dead in five minutes or so."
Park guide Alim Biun.


Wildlife was not necessarily the only target, recalls Biun.

"There was a Japanese soldier who used to come into the village to steal chickens, my grandfather told me. An arrow stopped him one day."

Headhunting is now long gone, but there is a reminder at the Monsopiad Cultural Village near Kota Kinabalu.

The village, a family business, was founded in 1996 in memory of a 1700s Kadazan tribe headhunter named Monsopiad.

In one home 42 human skulls hang, proudly shown off by a Monsopiad ancestor, Nicholas Dunggo, 24.

"I wish we could do some headhunting now," says Dunggo. "I can think of a few people...."

For more information contact:
  • LTI Tours 416 962 9661
  • Malaysian Tourism 1 888 689 6872
  • Malaysian Airlines 416 925 6670
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