This wonderful mix of colonial Europe and traditional China, known as Macau, is in danger of being lost. Not only does Macau revert to the Republic of China on December 20, 1999, but more threatening is the relentless industrialization that has swept the entire South China coastal region.

Macau has been a Portuguese protectorate since 1557. Portuguese explorers made their first landings into the area in the early 1500s. In 1557, the Chinese Government ceded this part of the peninsula to Portugal in gratitude for cleaning up piracy along the coast.

Most residents seem at ease with the takeover since Hong Kong has fared so well. Macau has also been promised "One Country, Two Systems", and the guarantee that the present system will remain unchanged for the next fifty years.

Not everyone is comfortable with this. Though the population is 95% Chinese and 3% Portuguese, some say they are not waiting to find out. Most seem relaxed with the change that is soon to come.

Macau was once a vital trade centre as well as a base for the Roman Catholic church in its efforts to Christianize Japan and China. Evidence of this still exists in the old colonial churches, scattered throughout the area. Hong Kong’s quick rise as a commercial centre overshadowed Macau and the territory languished for the rest of the 18th and 19th centuries, leaving it very much as it was when it was first developed. What remains is thoroughly fascinating and best explored on foot or by using the inexpensive public buses.

The best walk starts from the soul of the city, the plaza known as Largo do Senado. Walk north toward Sao Domingo Church following the unusual but attractive wavy design of black and white tiles. Follow the Rua da Sao Domingo and turn left on Rua da Palha, both winding little streets crammed with crowds and shops. Suddenly you reach the steps leading to the magnificent facade of Sao Paulo Church, all that remains of this beautiful church, destroyed by fire in 1835. Built in 1602 by exiled Japanese Christians, this "sermon in stone" is the most popular tourist destination in Macau.

Next to and above the church is Monte Fort, credited with repelling a Dutch invasion in 1622. Today it houses the recently opened Museum of Macau, which chronicles the history and everyday life of the people. From the top of the Fort, between the canons, there are great views of the territory and the bustling Zhuhai district of China.

Macau is the oldest European settlement in China. This peninsula on China’s southern coast is connected to Taipa and Coloane islands by bridges that are engineering masterpieces. Also impressive are the modern office buildings, casinos, hotels and a massive reclamation project off the waterfront. The attractive Lisboa Hotel Casino, the biggest and most popular, is packed with visiting Hong Kong Chinese, especially on the weekends.

Our hotel, the Holiday Inn was within walking distance of the Leal Senado, the focal point of downtown. Largo do Senado (Senate Square) is invitingly charming with benches, colourful plants and a lovely fountain. Pedestrians gather here in large numbers to see what is happening in the city and to walk these colonial streets. Cars are forbidden which makes shopping a very relaxing pastime. The Macau Government Tourist Office is conveniently located on the Square.

Macau has many Chinese Temples but the A-Ma Temple (goddess of the Sea) is special because it is the oldest and it gave the city its name. A Ming Dynasty temple from the 1400s, it predates the Portuguese by 100 years. Crowded with worshipers, smoke from huge rings of incense filled the air. Many knelt to shake joss sticks, eager to know their future. Outside the noise of thousands of firecrackers was almost deafening....a custom that is supposed to frighten away evil spirits.

Just opposite the A-Ma Temple is the Macau Maritime Museum, built near the spot where the first Portuguese landed when they arrived in Macau. It is one of the world’s best museums, designed like a stylized ship. East Asian seafaring traditions and historic accounts of early explorers are depicted in the museum. Half-hour tours of the Inner Harbour are also available for 10 pacatas ($2 Cdn).

The Grand Prix Museum houses the memorabilia, race cars and motorcycles that tell the story of the Grand Prix. Interactive simulators allow guests to experience the thrill and speed of the race.

Next door , the Wine Museum illustrates the history of wine making and details Portuguese wines. Admission is only 15 patacas ($3 Cdn) and includes wine tasting. The costumes of the various wine-growing provinces of Portuagal are each displayed, along with the wine produced in that area..

Restoration Row is a street preserved from the wrecker’s ball and renovated for use as a library, national archives and offices for the education department. The buildings feature the popular architecture of the 1920’s with arcades of elegant arches, flat roofs with carved pediments, sculptured windows and interior patios. Macau was given an award by the Pacific Asian Travel Association for saving and preserving these elegant buildings.